Behind the scenes

Fiorucci’s FW20 collection pays homage to Maripol – the gatekeeper of 80s club culture
Fashion | 2 March 2020

Fiorucci‘s archive is one of a kind: all leopard print, jumpsuits and spandex, the cult brand epitomised the sex and shimmer of New York’s disco scene in the 70s and 80s. For its FW20 womenswear collection, the label pulls from its back catalogue and pays homage to one of its greats, Maripol.

Photographed by Abbi Fletcher, here we go behind-the-scenes on the FW20 lookbook shoot.



Known as ‘the gatekeeper of 80s club culture’, Maripol arrived in New York from France in 1976 and emersed herself in a scene she would soon define. Within one year the French polymath was recruited as art director of Fiorucci’s New York store (known as the “daytime Studio 54”) and was working with cultural icons of the time, including Madonna, Grace Jones, Debbie Harry, Cher, Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

Titled Lucky Stars, Fiorucci’s FW20 offering hones in on a series of polaroids taken by Maripol on a large 20×24 Polaroid camera – capturing the names stated above and others – while celebrating the brand’s incredible musical history. So rich is the brand’s involvement in music, a sixteen-year-old Madonna played her very first gig at the Fiorucci store.

In satin bombers, vinyl pants and signature Tara jeans decorated with the Stars and Stripes, Fiorucci’s effervescent energy and sex appeal takes a time warp trip to 2020, paying homage to the brand’s mix of Italian, US and British influences with aplomb. Elsewhere, menswear looks designed by new Menswear Artistic Director Daniel Fletcher offer counterpart to the womenswear pieces, cutting the Fiorucci DNA into tailored pieces punctuated by western details, collegiate knits, lurex kink and hot pink silk neck scarves. The 80s may be over, but Fiorucci lives on.

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