new ways of dressing
Last week, Diesel debuted the second installation of its Red Tag Project, this time with designer Glenn Martens of the label Y/Project, following the debut with Shayne Oliver of Hood by air earlier this year.
Inspired by one of Diesel’s own slogans, ’Go with the Flaw’, the capsule collection explored the themes of ‘mistakes’, owning them to make them work for you. Garments consisted of menswear staples but manipulated in a way that they become almost unwearable, so jacket waistbands were many times smaller meaning it could only be worn opened or so buttoned up that sides were left exposed.
The presentation took place at Milan’s Fabbrica del Vapore, with the works of Dutch photographer Hans Eijkelboom heavily referenced, he was also on hand to shoot the collection’s look book. Eijkelboom’s People of the Twenty-First Century book – a photo series collating together banal street style images of similar outfits – heavily shaped the presentation itself which featured an industrial 6 layered stage to showcase the total six looks, within each layer four models, male and female, wore the same look, but styled in different ways, echoing the themes in Eijkelboom’s book.
The collection featured wardrobe fundamentals with touches of the avant-garde: creating garments size-free and genderless. Martens’ innovative and playful work with denim at Y/Project carried over to this new capsule, with snatched waisted blue denim jackets and a high waisted black double denim look included.