Yohji Yamamoto has been at the helm of his eponymous brand for over forty years now, one of the longest tenures of anyone in fashion. Even more impressively, this SS24 collection came mere days before his 80th birthday. Yet, he shows absolutely no signs of letting up or slowing down.

The show was held in the salon of Paris’ Hôtel de Ville, the runway softly lit underneath ten grand chandeliers. The walls and ceilings covered in pastel rococo scenes, a stark contrast to Yohji’s trademark black. From somewhat reserved opening looks, button-up vests with pointed shoulders, to more deconstructed outfits that were all jumbles and knots, belts and strings hanging, this collection felt like a best-of Yohji. Every look was undeniably him, which is a surprisingly difficult idea for some designers to convey. What makes a Yohji outfit a Yohji outfit? The answer was in clear sight, but only he knows the formula.