This season saw Nicholas Daley continue his explorations of heritage and music, this time zoning in on the rich history of quilting in the American south and its connection to black folk-blues music. Titled Blue Quilt, the collection took sonic cues from past and present, paying homage to folk music greats Richie Havens, Jo Armatrading and Davey Graham and contemporary performers like Lianne La Havas, Sons of Kemet and Nigerian-Irish artist Caleb Kunle, with Kunle himself featuring in the season’s campaign imagery.

Inspired by New York-based quilt artist Michael Thorpe, whose work uses colour and texture to explore his own mixed heritage and culture, Daley turned to UK quilting specialists to upcycle past season fabrics and offcuts, repurposing them into unique garments: craftsmanship and sustainability have always been at the core of the Nicholas Daley brand, working with artisans from Japan, Scotland and Ireland on fabrics and Daley’s own mother heads up the knitwear team.

These techniques were used throughout, including a pastel yellow vest with navy blue patchwork detail and matching wide-legged trousers with quilted panels along the sides, and a poncho and matching bucket hat featured a linear design made up of constructed quilted panels in clashing colours and patterns, while longtime collaborator, illustrator Gaurab Thakali, returned with a calligraphic logo.