• Text Finn Blythe
  • 16th September 2018

Brave new world

In the first outing since Laura and Deanna Fanning were selected to oversee the Kiko Kostadinov womenswear line, the young designers repaid the faith with a collection that built upon the subversive concept of femininity – a trope that brought the two together during their masters programme at Central Saint Martins. Despite their relative inexperience, the Melbourne-born sisters have already established a distinct visual vocabulary centred on an unapologetically aggressive femininity, flavoured by a litany of 1960 sci-fi references that frequently informed previous graduate collections.

In the brilliant white space of Swiss Church a dystopian mood ran prominently throughout, informed by Aldous Huxley’s seminal 1932 novel A Brave New World. Alphas, Betas, Gammas, Deltas and Epsilons – Huxley’s nefarious caste system was represented in a palette of black, khaki, leaf green, mulberry and greys, with the same emphasis on pattern-cutting and uniform that has characterised the vision of the label since its launch in 2016. While structured power shoulders cast our minds to Blade Runner‘s Nexus-7 Replicant, Rachael.

Beneath the clinical space-age edge – typified by the patent metallic boot designed in collaboration with Camper – a sensuality ran throughout. Deanna’s background in knitwear is another string to the bow of this design duo and it shone through here with seamless garments that clung elegantly to the body owing to the fact each was knitted as a single piece, enclosing each body like moulds. This was a reminder of what makes London Fashion Week so exciting: the bravery of Kostadinov to appoint two young designers that look ready to propel his women’s line into the limelight.