Opening the fifth day of the Paris Menswear schedule, only the British Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov could get the fashion pack out at such an ungodly hour. Setting the tone for a wake-up call with a thumping soundtrack, models weaved around the white-pillared catwalk in a dizzying kick to the senses. High on FW24’s agenda was Kostadinov’s continual exploration of functionality and craft, toying with the tension of gesture and form as tailoring was cut in asymmetrical figures and workwear silhouettes softened with curved hemlines. Exaggerated tie-like forms were elongated to greet trousers at the buckle to create a modernised vision of dungarees while collared tracksuit co-ords encapsulated Kiko’s ability to manipulate a traditional garment into something a little more off-kilter.

Looks were completed with crown-like headgear crafted by artist Noi Kamo, coiled, pinned and wrapped with spare laces or metal rings referencing headpieces from Kiko’s Bulgarian heritage and displaying Kamo’s experimental practice. One thing the designer is known for is a good collaboration, we’ve seen him team-up with the likes of Asics, Marc Jacobs’ Heaven and At.Kollektive, but at his PFW show Kostadinov debuted an inaugural Levi’s collaboration on the runway, unveiling black denim jackets and jeans punctured with petal-like cut-outs. We’re sure it’ll be another sell-out.