- Text Kinza Shenn
- 10th January 2017
You might recognise the name Kiko Kostadinov from his sold-out collaboration with Stüssy two years ago. But since then, the Central Saint Martins MA grad has been developing his menswear label, based around a more subtle style. Less sporty, more work-y. In his second season under NEWGEN, the Bulgarian designer distilled his proposals on modern uniforms and social classes in ways that felt more austere than ever.
A nocturnal palette of black, navy and silver was the basis of the collection. The models had reddened eyes – perhaps, in this realm of janitors and security guards, they’d been working the night shift. They carried metal jewellery along their belt loops like a ring of keys. The tidiness of their reserved tailoring, clean lines, all tucked in, ironed out, buttoned up, had a politeness and formality about it that spoke to Kostadinov’s discussion of blue-collar uniform and its social positioning. But any appearance of industrial uniformity was totally undercut by the quiet brilliance of his constructive details. It made each garment feel truly special, and human.