Now in his second year at the helm of Jil Sander, this season Rodolfo Paglialunga undid the top button of his controlled aesthetic (metaphorically and figuratively): exaggerated volumes, fabric play, and elongated stripes became the technical cynosure for the stellar show. Lines were clean. Sweatshirts toyed with comfort. Blazers were reimagined as dresses. Delicacy was employed in the details. Elongation was central.

New moods were set as unconstructed cotton suits with killer (removable) padded shoulders and no-nonsense shoes shaped empowered silhouettes (à la Dallas power dressing) whilst pastel hues of yellow, pink and blue were translated through pleated dresses providing softer bursts of colour. Jil Sander’s sartorial heritage was prominent (tailored pieces felt fresh; hair was scraped back; and accessories were super-sized – think: earrings, bags, shoes) however this time it came with a progressive twist.