After the Jil Sander SS24 show, an arty, collage Instagram account relocated a look from the show – a white sleeveless dress decorated with rectangular paillettes of fabric that burst from the lower half of the dress like icicles – onto a pure white Greek stone building with the Mediterranean sea in the background. The caption read: “Like a Greek goddess appearing at the first light of day.”

This image hit us as a perfect take on this season’s Jil Sander offering, described as “light, elegant, and disruptive” by the show notes. The season felt futuristic, elevated, ethereal. In Lucie and Luke Meier’s artful manner, women’s and menswear silhouettes developed and evolved through technical craft. Knitted evening gowns floated down the runway, boxy jackets were reshaped in graphic, tunic graphic shapes, and oversized pointed collars sat over sleeveless blazer vests. Chrome details added subtle decoration – portholes were cut into vest tops and shimmering discs were perched on the edge of shirt collars – as dramatic steel and zircon jewels embraced a glacier shimmer alongside tight beanies reminiscent of 50s retro swim caps. One look saw a trenchcoat reimagined as an exquisitely tailored look, cinched at the waist with a double belt and cut into pleated shorts, buttoned sleeves open to the elbow. Another saw a shirt quite literally peel from the body into a cape, sleeves hanging loose behind the arms and neckline transformed into a structured collar. You could imagine the design duo in their studio carefully slicing garments and twisting them into new forms; this is the joy of the Meier’s Jil Sander – it makes you look, makes you question, makes you smile.