Under the stewardship of artistic director Alessandro Sartori, Ermenegildo Zegna XXX exists in that perfect spot between tailoring and leisurewear, in the words of Sartori himself, a “rewiring of luxury crafting” where “effortlessness is the key.” Titled The (New) Set, SS22 turned this mantra up another notch, with versatile and interchangeable garments designed for the man (and woman) of today.

As is the norm nowadays, the collection release took the form of a short film by director Mattia Benetti shot across Italy: from a labyrinth-like maze on the grounds of Masino castle in Piedmont to the industrial backdrops of the IULM University campus and the 60s labyrinths of the Monte Amiata housing complex. Models are shown walking and running through the various locations, ending in a mass communion of sorts, sharing a meal with Sartori heading up the table while suspended over water.

And a certain ease of transition was key within the collection, with fluid silhouettes giving form to collarless kimono shapes, utilitarian chore coats and long dusters, while tightly woven fabrics and paper-thin leathers were weightless staples. Movement and comfort were at the forefront, with fluid wide-legged trousers paired with boxy or oversized shirts and jackets. As for the tailoring, this season Sartori took reference from workwear shapes and details, cutting relaxed suiting with utilitarian extras including oversized pocket flaps and augmented drawstrings.