Diesel’s SS24 show set the beat for Milan Fashion Week. Taking place amid an eight-hour rave hosted by NTS for 7,000 people, Glenn Martens delivered a collection of unbridled hedonism, inviting us to indulge in pleasure and play. Soundtracked to Senjan Jansen’s thumping techno, models paraded along a 150-foot red carpeted runway as the Italian rain fell hard – a welcomed dramatic accompaniment. Backdropped by a giant screen which will continue to show a programme of films curated by Diesel across the weekend, the setting was a fitting accompaniment to Martens’ movie-inspired pieces as parodies of old-school film posters adorned t-shirts and laser-cut leather like tongue-in-cheek takes on Spice World and Batman. 

Synonymous with the brand, devoré denim was everywhere – shredded and spliced, acid washed and bleached, zipped up and torn apart. A master of the 90s to 00s transition, although Martens’ design aesthetic oozes sex appeal and after-hours indulgence, it is also a testament to artisanal craft. Delicate distressing appeared on nearly every garment as jersey fabric was burnt out, flaking away from models’ bodies like peeling paint to reveal skin beneath. At the same time, red Diesel logos peaked out from behind burnt-out camo-printed hoodies and pants. Knitted dresses and jumpers were purposefully laddered in spidery cobweb patterns, lurex dresses wore underwear outside the garment and trousers were fitted with collaged bumbags.

The art of transformation was a constant throughout as belt bags became multi-purpose, three fusing together to form bandeau tops and mini skirts. Even models themselves morphed into their looks, caked in mud or covered in shimmery glitter to match Martens’ creations. Thigh-high D-Cloud boots and slip-on heels were crafted from denim, signature play bags were printed with movie posters and jewels snaked around arms and necks like tattoos. 

Speaking on the show, Martens said; “Diesel loves to party. The collection is the spirit of Diesel, democratic and experimental in every piece. I believe in living life to the fullest, every day should be a party.” Just as the last model walked, the rain came to a halt – as if Martens had ordered it from the powers that be. But, there were still four more hours of partying to be done – Diesel style.