Balanciaga SS24 represented a very personal moment for Demna. On a runway backdropped by dramatic red velvet curtains, the designer’s friends, family, inspirers and collaborators walked for the fashion house. These included Demna’s mother Ella, who opened the show in a twisted black trench coat with extra sleeves, fashion critic Cathy Horyn, musician BFRND – also Demna’s partner – Linda Loppa, who taught him at Antwerp Academy, the designer’s PT and his chief creative officer Martina Tiefenthaler, amongst many others. “This was probably my most personal and my most favourite collection. It was about me, it was about my story,” Demna explained. 

As for the clothes, it was Demna through and through. Oversized tailoring and huge shoulders drew wild silhouettes alongside signatures like floral dresses, motorcycle jackets, cargo pants and hoodies. Bomber jackets continued the four-arm exploration as sporty moments mixed with grunge layering. As always with Demna, there were moments of surrealism – check out those exaggerated trainers, and the shoes models were holding that were actually bags.

Two moments are worth spotlighting. Firstly, US artist, model and icon Amanda Lepore walking the runway in an embellished gown, looking like a John Waters version of Marilyn Monroe – iconic! – and BFRND closing the show in a collage of seven vintage wedding dresses sliced and spliced together. Looking very not impressed, and walking down the runway to intense beats, it was a moment that was pure Demna.