What’s that little square bit of tech on Naomi Campbell’s blazer lapel? Good question. According to the Coperni press release it’s the new Ai Pin created by hardware start-up Humane. But what does it do? Better question. “The intelligent clothing-based wearable uses a range of sensors that enable natural and intuitive compute interactions and is designed to weave seamlessly into users’ day-to-day lives.” Sure, let’s go with that.

One thing’s clear, Coperni designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant are continuing to explore innovative technology, weaving it through their own progressive designs. (You’ll remember last season’s dramatic Bella Hadid spray-on dress moment.) Inside the IRCAM, a French institute dedicated to sonic research, the walls and ceiling of Coperni’s SS24 venue began to move and morph, bouncing soundwaves in different directions, playing with ideas of sound manipulation. 

In this future-forward vision, Coperni’s design duo foresaw semi-transparent clothing (denim shirts reduced to pockets, collars and cuffs, floating across models’ bodies), tailored business suiting with oversized shirt sleeves overflowing from blazer sleeves, and leather jackets with in-built, working stereo speakers. Triangle cut-outs were an ode to the humble triangle instrument and metallic herringbone echoed the texture of a classic microphone. The sonic theme continued across accessories, with models holding 3D-printed CD player Swipe Bags, just like those we used to carry around in the 90s/00s that would annoyingly keep skipping as it bounced in your bag. Are CDs back? We knew we saved our Now That’s What I Call Music! collection for a reason. Believe us, these bags will be everywhere next season – perhaps the Ai pin also.