British designer Bianca Saunders reimagined Paris’ Le Consulat arts venue into a set from Oliver Samuels’ early 90s Jamaican sitcom Oliver at Large. Soundtracked by snippets from the show’s reggae-infused soundtrack featuring singer Barrington Levy, Saunders’ FW23 collection explored perspectives and parallels.

Titled PLAYWORK, Saunders once again highlighted her talent for seamlessly merging male and female silhouettes. Lapels were cut asymmetrically, pyjama style sets were crafted in glitchy geometric prints and bow-legged leather trousers adopted a paper-like texture with seams spiralling from the inner thigh. References to Oliver at Large were throughout: stills from episodes were printed on tees and trousers, while the catchphrase ‘It Must Be a Duppy’ was printed across tracksuits. In a rare merging of modern minimalism and a kitsch show set-up, Saunders’ silhouette remained sleek as tuxedo coats with draped fronts crafted without the formality of fastenings were paired with square-toe slip-on shoes.

Crafted in hues of marl grey, electric blue, creamy beige and pops of plum, the London-based designer elevated ribbed leisure wear and tracksuit form to the realms of the Parisian runway. Rounded off by the show’s performance art piece, models such as Kai-Isaiah Jamal took part in an interpretative dance moment, slowly moving in time with one another as Saunders’ FW23 collection was showcased in all its glory.