We do love a surprise show. On the last day of Paris Fashion Week, having opened this season with his incredible sheer womenswear collection, Anthony Vaccarello showed his latest menswear offering, formally announced during PFW. Cue flight changes galore. Inside the spectacular rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce, where Vaccarello presented his FW23 menswear last year, a soundtrack of synths and Phil Collins pointed us towards an 80s mindset.

Of course, it was hard not to see a show as suit-heavy as this was as anything but Vaccarello’s love letter to Yves Saint Laurent himself. Not only is it nearly impossible to find a picture of the designer wearing anything other than a suit, Saint Laurent’s name is forever synonymous with suiting because he was the first designer to ever tailor suits and tuxedos specifically for women. The Saint Laurent tropes also continued into the show space itself, with the proscenium through which the models marched being decorated with dark flowers, bunches of calla lilies, anemones and orchids, which were a direct reference to the couturier’s shows.

What was fascinating about this show was watching how the collection subtly told a story as each outfit came out. We began with a gorgeous slouched double-breasted suit (on an uncanny Yves replica model). Then subtle variations in colour and design were introduced, a grey suit paraded out, followed by a pinstripe suit worn open. As we went on, the lapels became flightier and the trousers began to bellow. The suits themselves were transforming, almost breathing, from skinny fits to loose fits and back again. The jacket came off and silk shirts rippled in the breeze. Occasionally, we took diversions into outerwear with huge rubbery leather coats and peak caps that felt like our business boys had stumbled into a seedy club.

Colourways became braver with puces, pastel greens and even tans. Yes, Anthony Vaccarello managed to make a tan suit look spectacular! The collection was rounded off with a series of single-breasted suits and a final all-black number that you could only wish to be buried in.