Smokescreen

A Björk gig changed everything for Rick Owens
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 29 September 2023

Paris’s Palais de Tokyo has become Rick Owens’ runway home, his models dramatically entrancing down those grand steps in Owens’ trademark mega-platformed ankle-snapper boots. The coloured smoke from his menswear show in June also made a comeback this season, filling the sky with bursts of colour.

Though Rick Owens made his name as fashion’s Prince of Darkness, his recent shows have seen him move away somewhat from the black-on-black collections that we’ve come to expect. That isn’t to say that some of the outfits in his collection aren’t positively evil-looking. The jacket with the shoulders that continued to rise like a sculptural vortex gave the air of some emperor from another planet. Or the hooded lace number that covered the entire body, leaving just the black silhouette of a human-like shape to haunt the runway.

But, elsewhere, there was total elegance. Of course, they won’t suit everyone, but some of the dresses in this collection were just out of this world. If you had told us Rick Owens would, someday, present an elegant dusty pink gown we would have laughed in your face and yet, here we are – and it’s glorious. Turns out, it was a Björk gig that made Owens see the light, having fallen for the Icelandic musician’s positivity and joy.

At the back end of the collection it all went very Dune, amazing boiler suits which, aided by the models’ all-black contact lenses, truly felt out of this world. It was all so unsettling and all so beautiful.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Rick Owens WOMENS-SPRING-SUMMER-24





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