British force
Bobby Abley SS15 backstage. Photography James Naylor
Top image: Cottweiler FW15
London is the home of some of the world’s most exciting menswear design talents, a feat heavily bolstered by the British Council’s dedication to supporting emerging fashion. From accreditation to sponsorships, grants and media support, the institution has continued to act as a much needed platform for young designers rising up in a cut-throat and highly competitive global market.
Take NEWGEN MEN, the Topman-sponsored program launched in 2009 that has quickly become a holy grail of names-to-watch, providing worthy menswear designers with the fortification to see their visions enacted. The scheme has racked up a star-studded list of past recipients, a total of 27 menswear designers, including the likes of JW Anderson, Christopher Raeburn, Christopher Shannon, Katie Eary, Sibling and Shaun Samson.
Last night the BFC announced the next batch of creative masters to receive support for SS16: Disney maverick Bobby Abley is the first, known for capturing characters in a new creative light, (his SS15 ‘Ursula’ and ‘Sebastian’ jumpers were a particular commercial hit); design-duo Cottweiler blasted into the LCM fold last season with their concept-led installation; and thirdly, last-season newbie PIETER, amalgamating a grounded aesthetic and gender-specific detailing and silhouettes.
Bobby Abley FW15
They will be joining existing recipients of the scheme: Agi & Sam, Alex Mullins, Astrid Andersen, CMMN SWDN, Craig Green, Diego Vanassibara, Kit Neale, Lee Roach and Nasir Mazhar.
British menswear’s global-profile continues to increase annually. It’s become an unmatchable force, delivering the most virtuosic minds in fashion, and London Collections: Men is its ultimate showcase. Bring on June.
Stay tuned to HERO come June for full fashion week coverage, from London, Florence, Milan and Paris