• Text Clementine Zawadzki
  • Photography Takanori Okuwaki
  • 10th January 2015

Flared up

An intimate space of futuristic and relaxed design, cardboard boxes were piled high, wrapped in plastic, and set against beams with rope, as a cotton candy like fabric was snaked and draped around stacks of carpet samples on the floor.

The purposely-industrial setting was the backdrop for Alex Mullins’ FW15 presentation, with the white, minimalistic atmosphere counteracted by controlled and deliberate styling. Yet Mullins’ style also juxtaposes itself, as where there’s structure, there is also comfort and ease. A signature approach but a classic, Mullins’ play on proportions continues in a collection that delves further into exploring texture and balance. Moving away from the bright and muted colours of his FW14 clothing, and the distressed embellishments of SS 15, this designer’s new landscape is fresh because of its idea, and refined in the simplistic framework of masculinity.

“I’m obsessed with heartthrob in the way it’s always ‘that’ guy in the movie, and it’s always ‘that’ guy at school that you shouldn’t fancy, but you do fancy him, or that kind of character that’s just beautiful but you don’t really know why,” says Mullins.

“Last season I wanted to look at really destroying clothes, like really thinking about how clothes are old and I can sell them as new, and this season I wanted to turn that around and make clothes that are clean, new and fresh.”

Pink, brown and blue, were a few of the colours that featured in Mullins’ collection, with a focus on repurposing fabrics and making them into something slightly different than they might’ve been before. Long wool coats made out of boiled wool blankets, and flat denim with crisp pleats.

“It’s an idea that really excites me at the moment because it’s so box fresh,” says Mullins. “I’m genuinely interested in me wearing them, or seeing someone else wearing them, and see how they’re [the clothes] aging, which is really exciting.”

And the soundtrack to the show; Mullins said above all else it had to be sexy. “I think it should always be sexy, but sexy is such a cringe-y word,” he says. “If you were to hear something with primitive ears, like not have known that’s Frankie Goes To Hollywood, or that’s Duran Duran, and just listened to it like a piece of music and think, ‘that’s really beautiful’, it’s your knowledge that’s turning it into something a bit sexier than it actually is, and I think that’s what it’s all about.

“It’s in the mind of who’s watching it.”