Amid his FW23 show titled I Loved You From The Start at the Royal Academy of Arts, Daniel w. Fletcher debuted a collaboration with Huntsman, the 174-year-old Savile Row tailor. Working together to produce nine bespoke suits and ten ready-to-wear styles, each item is inspired by the archives of both British brands: Daniel stands at the fore of modern menswear while Huntsman boasts a storied heritage spanning close to two centuries.

Impeccable tailoring is given a contemporary makeover as shoulders are structured and waits are cinched with Fletcher’s signature cummerbund silhouette. Trousers pool at the foot, shirting cut louche and oversized, and traditional basting stitching is left on the outer panelling of blazers to accentuate the meticulous process of craft. In the conversation below, Fletcher walks us through the inspiration behind his collection and sheds a light on the inner workings of Savile Row.

Ella Joyce: How did the collaboration between yourself and Huntsman begin?
Daniel Flecther: I first met Campbell [Carey, Huntsman’s Head Cutter and Creative Director] last September when he came to my SS23 runway show. My collections are always inspired by British heritage, in particular traditional tailoring, and the idea of working with the masters from Savile Row was a dream for me. I guess he liked the show because we then ended up working on the next season’s tailoring together, which resulted in this collaboration.

“I wanted to show the intricacies involved in creating these pieces.”

EJ: What was the inspiration behind the collection?
DF: I started by looking through both of our archives, thinking about the points of view of both DWF and Huntsman and seeing what they could bring to each other. In particular, I was inspired by the inner workings of the tailoring Huntsman has been creating for the past 174 years and the process of creating a bespoke suit. That’s how we ended up having the basting stitch left in the suits, I thought it was so beautiful I wanted to show the intricacies involved in creating these pieces.

EJ: Huntsman has such a storied heritage on Savile Row, how did you go about fusing tradition and modernity?
DF: The cuts that I designed are quite different to those that Huntsman normally creates; I went for flared trousers, big shoulders and narrow waists, which are a bit more 80s and feminine than what they are used to. I think this combination of my fits with their craft helped to achieve a good balance between tradition and modernity – and the cutters seemed to love the challenge!

“It was a really significant moment for me as a designer.”

EJ: We saw the collection debut at the Royal Academy in June among the works of prolific British artists, how did it feel seeing the garments on the runway?
DF: Showing at the RA was quite surreal for me, I used to visit it when I would come up to London as a kid and never imagined I would have my own show there. It also felt like the perfect place for this collection being just at the end of Savile Row, it was a really significant moment for me as a designer.

EJ: Huntsman’s archives date back over 170 years, was there anything in particular you found interesting or surprising when looking through their history?
DF: There was an internal belt detail on an old tweed jacket that really stood out to me and we ended up using it in some of the suits I designed. It is visible on the back but then goes through the sides and fastens on the inside to create a fitted back and boxy front. It’s very unusual, especially in menswear, so I was surprised to see it on such a traditional item of clothing. More internal belts I say!

EJ: How would you sum up the collection in three words?
DF: It’s quite chic.

Shop the collection here.
Revisit our show report.