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Yohji Yamamoto SS22: past, present and future
By Cristian Burbano | Fashion | 25 June 2021

‘A statement about today’s world’ concludes the show notes for Yohji Yamamoto SS22, with a collection that referenced the fondly remembered chapters of its past alongside an altogether more pragmatic look to the current muddled state of our world. Released with an eighteen minute film, this fourth collaboration with Japanese photographer TAKAY was shot at the brand’s Tokyo flagship. Runway footage was intercut with stills focusing on details and embellishments that runs through the collection, accompanied by a moody guitar soundtrack and poetic narration by Yamamoto himself.

Looks began in a monochrome palette of black and ivory, with minimalist suits inspired by a nostalgic throwback to Yamamoto’s SS86 collection. Deconstructed garments and oversize fits, a long-standing signature of Yamamoto, featured heavily throughout, as did a liberal sense of experimentation in volume and draping of fabrics. Colour came later with an array of vibrant florals, punky paint-splatter details and Warholian newspaper print fabrics that used headlines taken from current world events. These were by the hand of Yuuka Asakura, another key brand reference from recent decades and a long-term collaborator of Yamamoto’s whose hand-painted applique eye motifs elevated coats and other outerwear pieces with a surreal quality.

GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show