- Text Clementine Zawadzki
- 28th June 2015
The master tailor, Yohji Yamamoto’s penchant for noir fashion was ever present in his SS16 clothing. Boxy, oversized tailoring, wide-leg trousers were structured with pocket detail and side seam piping in electric blue. The subtleties in Yamamoto’s designs are what coined his avant-garde tag, and what makes the darkness inherent in his designs emit real feeling. Plus the grounded street sensibility that has seen grow this designer’s affiliation with sports – Adidas Y-3 the point blank example.
Like a uniform, garments imbued a charcoal grey to black spectrum, with the signature muted hues throughout. Still, this collection re-imagined Yamamoto’s dramatic aesthetic with suits awash in floral fabric, and plain canvases decorated with dainty (albeit slightly fucked up) pencil sketches, some depicting skeletons playing guitar or walking a dog. Crinkled coats were cast with a psychedelic pattern, shoulders and ankles were accented with prints while high-neck shirt collars were tied with loose cravats or left bare. Vertical stripes ran asymmetrically on the model’s faces like caution tape, while clothes fell and moved with mobility. This aesthetic held tight – a master of darkness and deconstruction at his finest.