• Text Finn Blythe
  • 9th July 2020

made to move

Wooyoungmi’s SS21 collection was brought to life via film, in which a choreographed assembly of models torqued and twisted to an ambient soundtrack. Shot in the derelict beauty of Théâtre des Bouffes-Parisiens, the 19th-century Parisian theatre founded by composer Jacques Offenbach, the peeled walls and bruised stage suggested fresh hope in the face of our current crisis.

Like the models, the clothes took their cues from the principles of dance for a co-ed collection that emphasised movement and elegance. Adopting the style of Seoul’s youth as its template, over-size coats and tailoring featured alongside boxy denim looks, juxtaposing a rigid sense of formalism with fluidity. Scale provided another source of experimentation: dresses that doubled as t-shirts, tank tops stretched to become dresses and over-shirts that represented a new generational take on suiting.

Inspired by the legacy of German dance icon Pina Bausch, who famously utilised colourful symbolism to signpost emotions in her choreography, the collection’s palette accentuates moments of contrast. Subdued shades of beige and black give extra weight to the vibrant punch of magenta and mint, rendering the collection in an air of undulating serenity.