• Photography Gwenaëlle Trannoy
  • 28th June 2016

A Clockwork Purple

Since debuting her label in 1999, Japanese designer Chitose Abe has created collections founded in texture, fabric and drape. Reinterpreting and remixing her dedication to this three-pronged vision, she’s honed a unique place in the market. This weekend in Paris, the Comme des Garçons alumni presented her menswear collection, offering forty-nine looks that stuck closely to the brand’s mantra, “design built upon the everyday”.

The show opened with a series of stripped back colour-block looks, the first a hectic shade of pink. Simple to first look, but this designer’s clothes are deceivingly complex – they’re worked, complicated and thought out. The kind of garments that require close-up inspection, trying on, touching. They are carefully considered in terms of shape (often a little deliberately disproportionate) and fabric (many of the surface details have a complex tactility).

Abe’s time at Comme is still apparent in her collections and the way in which she interprets the military uniform and forward-thinking sportswear of the ‘90s. Here it felt retro, but freshened when crossbred with international textiles like American plaid checks and Afghan belt detailing.