• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • Photography  Raffaele Cariou
  • 26th June 2014

Curtain call

After Raf Simons’ collaboration with Sterling Ruby last season hit popular boiling point one thing was clear: nobody had a clue what to expect next. For where on earth do you turn after opening the curtain on a project nine years in the making? 

Well there was nothing to fret about for with a clean slate comes endless possibility. And anyway, it’s RS we’re talking about.

The silhouettes were classic Simons, arresting in cut with that near cubist nip of over-exaggeration that makes even the most classic outerwear tastily architectural. There was still a whiff of FW14 left behind in the RS/SR patches yet they were reworked anew, accompanied by classic Simons image collages, patchworked across the back of bolero-like jackets. A gasoline blaze, a frenzy of silvery carp, an astronaut and on and on. But it was the personality here that drew a real focus – included was a picture of Simons’ parents, young and in love as well as a passport style headshot of the designer himself, shaggy haired in his youth. 

It was a clever, and somewhat heartfelt whip of the personal accented by a crack of the culturally iconographic. And of course, you’d be hard beat to find an audience member who didn’t leave the place hankering after the majority of the collection.