• Photography Jessica De Maio
  • Text Alex Baker
  • 15th January 2017

At Ports 1961, designer Milan Vukmirovic channelled the energy of the era he grew up in – namely, the 90s. Drawing from the energy of the second summer of “love”, the designer had the word translated in Japanese, Russian, French, and Arabic text and cast across nu-rave inspired sportswear, adding a feeling of universality and inclusiveness to collection full of party-full nostalgia.

Vukmirovic created his own take on the utilitarian wave currently sweeping the men’s shows, via intense colour blocking, stripes and graphic imagery of the heart. D-rings with straps fell to the floor from the waist of the baggy pants, while Japanese text gave the collection a Tokyo street-style vibe. Paired with giant puffer-coats with reflective panels, it all came together as a modern take on a 90s uprising. More formal pieces like peacoats and slit sleeved cape coats retained that urban edge through details like contrasting colours on seams.

At Ports 1961, Vukmirovic – who has previously designed for Jil Sander and Trussardi – has steadily rebooted the idea of workwear in the context of the modern man’s wardrobe. This season, he added heart to that vision. In light of the forthcoming film Trainspotting 2, it was a timely reminder of the decade many designers like Vukmirovic grew up in – one that has been a regular source of inspiration since.