• Photography Jessica de Maio
  • Text Alex James Taylor
  • 17th January 2017

Ivy League

Where last season Palm Angels creative director Francesco Ragazzi took inspiration from the muddy fields of Woodstock ’69, FW17 saw the designer look to his own youth, for a collection steeped in 90s nostalgia. “It’s the idea of a guy graduating from an Ivy League school in New York and starting to work in a bank… and eventually losing the job,” Ragazzi said.

Showing in Milan for the first time, Ragazzi translated this narrative into a sort of fraternity-formal wardrobe mash-up. Branded hoodies under woollen overcoats, zip-up American football polo shirts under tailored tracksuit blazers and trainers paired with suit trousers. Not to mention baggy jeans with low-hanging key chains, a throwback to that notoriously bad 90s fad nu-metal.

Through black sunglasses models’ blank expressions matched menacing styling: layers of hoods, scarves and hats, and thick branded belts, bags and chokers. Like a Harmony Korine vision of Gordon Gekko quitting wall street and becoming a Juggalo. Weird? You bet. Good? Hell yeah.