Fashion
  • Text Cristian Burbano
  • 20th September 2020

Art collection

This season, Molly Goddard may have been in lockdown in London yet her mind was at the plush Villa Menafoglio Litta, once the Italian home to art collectors Giuseppe and Giovanni Panza whose clashing collection – juxtaposing Claes Oldenburg’s messy and textured papier-mache sculptures with the sleek and simple works of Robert Morris – played a key influence in Goddard’s SS21 collection.

What begin as a muted and stripped back season, a result of the logistic limitations of the Covid-19 pandemic, soon evolved once Goddard and her team were able to safely return to work from their studio post lockdown. As an almost counter-response to the dark months of isolation Goddard went to the other extreme, with vibrant colours and patterns embracing a sense of joy.

The pre-recorded SS21 show was filmed at Goddard’s East London Studio without an audience and premiered on the brand’s YouTube channel. A total of 31 womenswear looks (no menswear this season) were shown in the all-white minimal space with only an elevated runway stage, the sparse space making the colourful looks pop even further.

Proportion and fabric manipulation are signature Goddard moves, creating fantastical, playful shapes that remind us that fashion really should be fun. Take the opening look this season, pairing a striped pink and black top with a neon green checkerboard jacket, ruffled orange shoulder bag and a semi-transparent skirt that appeared like two extra thick and fluffy pipecleaners wrapped around the model’s legs.

As minimalism and maximalism found their mutual happy place, frothy tulle gowns walked with A-line anoraks, neon sweats and a colourful collaboration with Uggs. Elsewhere, the designer revealed her first foray into denim as comfy blue jeans appeared screen-printed with oversized pink roses. Our takeaway? Even from a distance, Goddard is still able to put a big grin on your face.