Matthew Miller’s collections are never just clothes-on-bodies. His pieces are woven together as a narrative, exploring the psychological machinations of youth from oft-political perspectives. This youth comes in many forms: last season it was the boys of a dystopian future, their angst charging the fight for freedom. But yesterday saw Miller’s men return home from a war forced upon them, the collection exploring the resounding mental, emotional and physical impact of violence on a once-peaceful soul.
There was a melancholy air of one-size-fits-all uniformity, drawn from the ‘demob’ suits soldiers in their thousands were handed upon exiting the army post WWII. Muted navy washed over almost the entirety of the looks, silvery pinstripes running like weakened veins vertically down slim, telltale Miller tailoring. Silk-satin patches were stitched to Diemme shoes and elsewhere made up the entirety of trousers, reflecting the helter-skelter headspace of Miller’s world-weary man.
Adept narrating aside, Miller’s truest skill lies in his ability to translate a concept with confidence, consistence and absolute cool. You’d be hard beat to find another Matthew Miller collection that meets that creed with such clean-cut precision.
Read our preview of Matthew Miller’s SS15 collection here.
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show