- Text Jack Moss
- 22nd June 2015
collars on point
At Marni on the first day of Milan menswear we got an unexpected focus – the collar. Widened slightly and elongated to a sharp tip, on shirts or jackets, it materialised on almost every look.
Cue a subtle 70s sensibility that ran strong full stop. Take the tobacco, royal blue and muted orange colour palette, the safari-style jackets and the strong use rich brown leather. Then the prints: nostalgic florals, in bright shades or wallpaper-style geometrics.
But there was nothing throwback about this collection. Marni’s imprint remained clear, restraining these influences and reinterpreting them into cleanly designed separates, instilled with the brand’s pragmatic, quirky simplicity. Alongside showier pieces like the patchworked ponyskin jacket or the boxy leather shirts, there were also options that took a step back. Trousers, cropped at the ankle, a riff on last season’s shape were easy and wearable, whilst suiting came in a relaxed block. And on the feet, the Marni sandal was given a sharp graphic update.
Here was a collection that looked both backwards and forwards – oh, that was reflected in the huge mirror at the end of the catwalk. As Marni returns to the Milan schedule it’s a fitting point to make.