• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • 18th January 2016

Intimate movement

Last season, designer Consuelo Castiglioni embarked Marni on a new journey in taking her menswear collection from the usual presentation format to catwalk. So it was yesterday, on the second day of the Milan FW16 schedule, that we got the Italian powerhouse’s second show-in-motion.  

The minimal tropes that define the Marni collection have so far translated well to catwalk, this season even more than ever. Those signature colours that for SS16 carried an air of rich seventies nostalgia were stripped back as an urban take on sports-infused tailoring took over. Pinstripes ran strong across heavy double breasted coats, and paired with trainers they gave the feeling of modern mobility.

Marni was founded in the mid-90s and its subsequent no-fuss air continues to surge through its menswear output today. Of course that attitude is very much apparent in the cuts and general form, but its the subtler details that really give the collection its edge. Take the raw cut hems and broken cuffs which, paired with flower prints and cloud motifs, felt artisanal – minus any degree of the overdone. A sharp second catwalk outing, Castiglioni knows what her man wants – and how to present it to him.