- Photography Portia Hunt
- Text Tempe Nakiska
- 12th June 2017
For their MAN debut, designers James Theseus Buck and Luke Brooks this season brought their signature found-aesthetic to the runway. Working from their Rottingdean, East Sussex studio, the pair made moulds of a series of everyday objects, casting them in polyurethane foam onto cotton jersey.
Such processes are key to the duo’s visual language, exploring the beauty inherent in the mundane and unexpected, reworking objects in purposefully perverse ways. In their first collection, pressed flowers, human hair, and balloons were placed onto underwear, tights, and other garments; while for FW17 they set ancient Roman coins onto Blue Tack, and sealed socks onto shirts.
This season, it was an altogether tougher vibe: moulds of scissors, saws and hammers, matches, nails and hooks were cast on trackpants, sweaters, t-shirts and, in one case, a transparent body suit, its model a walking toolkit. There was also a pasta look, not dissimilar to the carb-loaded works of art you used to make as a kid.