• Text Cristian Burbano
  • Photography Nicky Zeng
  • 24th June 2017

Broken glass

Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov presented his second collection as creative director of Scottish label Mackintosh. Kostadinov’s appointment was announced with an Instagram post in late 2016, with his first collection 0001 debuting the following month at London Fashion Week: Men’s, this season, the designer moved location to Paris to showcase his sophomore, 0002, collection.

Following on from the rubber centric 0001, 0002 instead opted for the ‘materiality of glass’ as inspiration for the line.  This concept stemmed from the 1985 installation ‘Igloo, Do We Go Around Houses, or Do Houses Go Around Us?’ by Italian artist Mario Merz. The work features 65 slate slabs spiralling from the top of a circular steel frame, fastened with G clamps, with a joining structure of 74 panels of broken glass.  A combination of the raw materials, glass and tools informs the season: inside Galerie Rabouan Moussion, models stood atop glass and clamped stands with shards of mounted glass as a backdrop, mirroring Merz’s work.

Glass informed the collection; the use of transparent/translucent fabrics, glass-blown cuff accessories and a colour palette taken from household tools, layered glass and tones of stone, charcoal and pebble grey. Kostadinov re-worked wardrobe staples but with exaggerated dimensions in unisex fits. Being Mackintosh, the strongest looks were outerwear, its signature coats making appearances in the line, a particular highlight being the translucent white mac overcoat paired with an all black top and trousers.