For dreamers

Loewe SS20
Fashion | 23 June 2019

John Maus’ sleepy pop ballad Hey Moon serenaded the young nomads through the finale of Loewe’s show. Jonathan Anderson wanted it to feel as if they were simply walking through the streets – only, the streets of a dreamscape.

Anderson is a masterful worldbuilder. The show was staged in the auditorium of the Maison de l’UNESCO, the UN’s Parisian outpost serving peace, human rights and fundamental freedoms. Nine video works by artist Hilary Lloyd were glowing on monitors around the room: hyper-real abstractions of birds, bunnies and plants on infinite loop.

The boys were dressed in some long, pure pastels outfits, suede djellabas, or airy white floor-length tanks (the same style worn by Stranger Things’ Charlie Heaton in the season’s Meisel-shot campaign released days before). There were whimsical touches: the much-loved pink elephant bag was transmogrified into a cool necklace-slung iPhone case, and the Puzzle has been reimagined in bright rugby stripes (and featured in the second of three images from the Meisel campaign). Sinamay flowers tucked behind ears had a nymphish spirit.

But the location made it clear that the season’s sentiment was grounded in reality, not the clouds. As did the last of the three campaign images: a tattooed fist rising out of earth with a handful of dirt. Loewe’s hero is peaceful, yes, and pacifistic, but not entirely at peace.

GALLERYBackstage at this show

GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show