• 10th July 2020

Courtly flair

What better place to explore fairy tale themes of privilege and inheritance than Strawberry Hill House, the resplendent Gothic Revival villa formerly home to Horace Walpole and the setting of Kiko Kostadinov’s SS21 show. Within these hallowed halls, Kostadinov grounded his collection against the philosophical musings of Spanish photographer and director Robi Rodriguez, whose dystopian reflections on consumerism reverberated around gilded walls, stained glass and checkerboard parquetry.

Using rich jewel colours, the collection mused on its surroundings with garments that evoked the courtly flair of 18th-century dress. From the footwear, which emulated steeply-vamped, Rococo-style shoes (save for a gleaming silver buckle) to the ruffles that erupted from hemlines and darted breeches turned down into pointed cuffs, Kostadinov’s eye for period detail was in full effect. Playing with symmetry (or a lack thereof) throughout, two-tone effects were in abundance: striped peignoir coats, spiral leggings and inset fabrics that never allowed the eye to settle.