• Text Clementine Zawadzki
  • Photography Raffaele Cariou
  • 29th January 2015

Future love

Kenzo’s choice of venue this season was the recently renovated Philharmonie de Paris, a vast and slightly confronting visual that played off perfectly the love-generating mood set to transpire. Echoing a signal flare, the symbol-heavy collection was unleashed, with HMI lights fitted with 10ft long translucent beams. To Saint Etienne’s Only Love Can Break Your Heart, the metaphor of community and endurance saturated the runway, with mulled hues of navy and burgundy breaking through the urgency of bright, contrasting colours. Wingdings style signs appeared across sweaters and the like, creating an other-worldly vibe that brought up feelings of shared language, code and community. The word ‘Love’ was flipped and reversed to create repetitive patterns.

All about the detail, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s creativity didn’t deviate from functionality. Pockets featured on multi-coloured shearling collar bomber jackets, and on the sleeves of parachute seamed silk and wool coats. Acid wash textured jackets were cloaked in digital camouflage prints of orange, yellow and black, the design perhaps a further nod survivalist, one-for-all cultures. Polo neck jumpers and space dyed woven knits didn’t veer too far from the tapered lines of the traditional silhouette, only to enhance patterned nylon waterproof parkas and long hooded outerwear. A silver metallic two-tier coat was a standout, but (as usual) there were many in this collection.