• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • Photography James Naylor
  • 17th June 2014

Goodnight and go

It’s no secret that JW Anderson takes gender very seriously. But not in the usual respect – his approach is one that plays with sexuality, his collections powerful in the feminine takes on masculinity, bold and strong.

The scene seemed concrete from the outset, a collaboration with textile designer John Allen working rural British landscapes – a rugged cliff here, a green skyline there – across slit-necked woven tees, a call to the country and it’s folk undercurrent.

In truth, the star of yesterday’s show was a bourgeois woman, translated via sleepy silhouettes that begged to be lounged in. Soft, billowing trenches in earthy tones, fine pinstriped vests, and silk all in ones, finished lazily (in the best sense possible) with a necktie and one around the waist for good measure.