• Text Lisa Walden
  • 29th June 2016


The avant-garde works of creative polymath Junya Watanabe tend to bypass the traditional expectations of a designer. SS17 was no exception, with inspiration drawn from Russian gang tattoos as Watanabe made his man a small-time hustler. Models were etched with skull body art, donning studded leather loafers and colloquial suits.

Watanabe took a nod at Emir Kusturica’s farcical film Black Cat, White Cat, and trickled a thrill of gangster culture into the collection. “He takes a very light and almost humorous approach to what they wore and their antics,” explained the show notes of Watanabe’s direction. Printed pieces and leather adornments tied it all together, oscillating between two characters: the gang’s bad boy and its star member – the one who errs on the side of sleazy glamour and underground fame.