Pure pragmatism

Jil Sander SS16
23 June 2015

Fashion’s answer to a show about nothing, Jil Sander’s simplistic approach is faultless and revered. An aesthetic based upon subdued tones and the functionality of dressing, the brand remains a prominent representative for the minimalist ideal, and the less is more philosophy.

Yesterday’s output was Rodolfo Paglialunga’s second for the German clothing brand, the linear colour blocking that shaped out last season here strengthened, becoming varied and heavily angular. Gunmetal grey was the foundation for the collection, blue, khaki and teal were used to highlight pocket squares on shirts, blazers and trousers. Long coats were met at the knee with three-quarter length shorts and parachute, nylon suits were ruched with open lapels and compression straps to aid the utility concept.

Equal parts Devo and Gram Parsons, moving away from tailored plastic and structured outwear that exposed shirt cuffs and trousers that froze ankles, and killer denim with floral decal. Skinny ties in red and blue complemented white shirts with polka dot detail, like a re-imagined version of The Specials. Strong, young and different, it’s not exactly what you’d expect – and that’s the beauty of Jil Sander.

GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show