• Text  Dean Mayo Davies
  • Photography  Harry Carr
  • 18th June 2013

The cold shoulder

Jonathan Anderson provokes reactions. Which is good – three days of oatmeal linen tailoring in London would tip us over the edge.

Opening his show with a column dress and lavaliere, but looking like it had been put through Iris Blur on CS6, the designer continued to get shifty, patching and knotting through a collection where the bottom half, billowing trousers, stayed the same.

The Irish designer’s detractors talk of how this is just womenswear, on men. That argument is tiresome – when Coco Chanel adapted trousers, they were menswear. One of Yves Saint Laurent’s  icons, Le Smoking, was menswear.

What stood out in this show wasn’t the foamy diagonals, but looks 18–20, the patterned halter neck blouses. Anderson has realised a seriously unmined area of menswear is the shoulders, and his boys are the ultimate hangers. If you’ve got the collarbones for it, why not?