• Text Nik Patel
  • 22nd January 2016


Where colour was splashed sparingly in Yusuke Takahashi’s last autumnal output for Issey Miyake Men, it now held sovereignty, as the aptly labelled ‘Neonomad’ collection revealed in Paris. Inspired by the nomadic lifestyle that remains a deeply-rooted component of Mongolian culture, Takahashi divulged a fabric-focused ensemble, sectioned three ways, in the form of durable, warming knitwear, equine-centred sportswear and woven streetwear and tailoring.

Knitwear was generous in both shape and fabric, with thick cowl-necks and sweats in mohair-blend and horse hair. These soft but resilient materials, sourced from the natural world, were vital to the survival of nomadic life, thus Takahashi weighted equal dependence upon them within his collection. Overcoats came full length with exaggerated collars, cloaking the models in magenta and cerulean – vibrant sophistication, fit for a vagabond.

The collection soon moved to his take on sportswear, with thermographic prints, horseshoe embroidery and striped detail in sunburst, on taffeta overcoats in murky brown and slate, and tight-fitting cycling shorts.

Then the final section in which corduroy wove its way in via a pleated midnight blue trouser paired with a straight-cut trench coat in orange, purple and yellow microdot print. Contrasted with formalwear that came loosely-tailored and lightweight – charcoal and smoke-grey suits echoed the sentiment of “relaxed sophistication”.