• Text Finn Blythe
  • Photography Sara Cimino
  • 20th January 2019

artisan man

As the first fashion show to ever be held in Mobiler National, the former furniture epicentre for French royalty and home of historic tapestry manufacturers Gobelins and Beauvais, Hermès’ FW19 collection was a resounding tribute to French artisan heritage and savoir-faire. In the company of a prestigious lineage of chairs, hailing from Louis XI and Philipe I to Art Deco and present day, the spectrum of exquisite lines, fabrics, textures and craftsmanship that gave the show its setting was reflected in a collection that felt immaculately measured and effortlessly balanced.

Tailoring was strong throughout; from skinny pinstripe two-pieces to cropped pea coats and a range of excellent macs, totally distinct from one another in shape, fabric and cut. Patinated calf-skin trousers in Dijon-yellow and teal were accompanied by a quieter but no less refined skinny trouser that fell just above black leather boots. In such a regal setting, it might have been tempting to centre the entire collection on just tailoring, but there was an off-duty undercurrent to the turned up collars and unzipped quarter necks that presided beneath. A range of leather jackets too, paired with elegant turtle-necks added to the sense of ease and nonchalant chic that permeated this skillful collection.