• Text  Dean Mayo Davies
  • 26th June 2013

Definitely Haider

Haider Ackermann has written you a letter, on beautifully textured, weighted but otherwise anonymous white A4 paper. He will be happy to welcome you to rue de Turenne with his collection.

You check with your friends. Haider Ackermann is happy to welcome them too. They’re all worded differently. You ask another friend. They didn’t have one. Oh, right.

Haider Ackermann has presented menswear before, for SS11 as part of Pitti in Florence. Today, years later saw his Paris arrival – and nothing much has changed. The collection, at a decaying space to a rumbling soundtrack, shown on tattooed boys talking amongst both themselves and the audience, combined his previous menswear attitude with a nod to the luscious silks of women’s SS12. The proposal is sexy, like a fading fresco at a centuries old palazzo – but whoever is wearing these clothes lives inside them. That’s his skill.

This orchestration of the done-up, undone is distinctively Ackermann. And everything about this happening was as chic as its invitation.