For Clare Waight Keller’s SS20 offering, a selection of enigmatic videos surfaced on the brand’s Instagram page. In one, old-school tapes labelled Let’s go party and Underground are loaded into a cassette player; in another, the back of Waight Keller’s head can be seen, as she appears too busy to answer a journalist probing for information on the collection.

As it happens, the cassette tapes in particular were a dead giveaway. Serving as a time capsule reminder of the halcyon days of the early 90s, Waight Keller’s NY Paris 1993 collection was a homage to summer days spent in the two fashion capitals. “There is beauty in dichotomy,” read the show notes, as the designer married the botanical element of quaint Paris with the gritty outlook of ever-busy New York.

To the sounds of NYC’s very own Princess Nokia, models stepped out in looks that were as delicate as they were defiant. Patterned high-neck blouses were paired with dishevelled denim skirts left raw at the hem, while structured dresses were covered with embroidered foliage. Elsewhere, boyfriend-fit jeans slashed at the knee felt rebellious alongside tailored short suits worn with nothing underneath. However, it was Model Kaia Gerber that really stole the show in a plunging pastel bralet and leather skirt – an outfit that underpinned a collection that remixed elegance with edginess.