- Text Nik Patel
- Photography Takanori Okuwaki
- 22nd January 2016
Giorgio Armani – where can you go after over forty years of designing menswear? The answer; you strip back the gloss and impracticality and deliver a more inclusive collection, one that is stylish but utterly wearable.
The high-shine and lustre that cloaked Armani’s FW15 collection was shed for generously-shaped silhouettes that oozed comfort, and whilst the palette of predominantly grey, blue, black and brown was retained, the lavishness was replaced by a more simple elegance, and the velvet was more moderately used. This time, the designer utilised velvet to conjure a feeling of comfortability, of cosiness, rather than luxury; he wanted to display clothes that people could feel relaxed yet confident walking out of the door in.
Lines were kept clean, and knee-length overcoats came in crow and black-washed blue, featuring understated detailing. The combination of corduroy and braces gave a rustic, homely feel to the collection, whilst casual classics like the duffel coat appeared hoodless, sporting a caramel zigzag across the chest. The looks were sophisticated, as ever, but undeniably more embracing. Armani’s creative direction was expansive. The range grew wider and wider, as smart, functional workwear was paired with a quilted jacket in space-grey that relaxed the outfit. Then came the patterned sports jackets, coupled with slim-fitting knits featuring a tight roll-neck in clean black, and topped with narrow-brimmed hats; effortlessly elegant. At last, the Armani-signature tailoring made its presence felt in an array of plain and patterned suits, and in an effort to satisfy the enthusiasts for extravagance, he revealed an overcoat smothered from tip-to-toe in fur.