Few initiatives have yielded more innovative designers than Fashion East, the acclaimed mentorship scheme whose alumni list includes everyone from Martine Rose to Gareth Pugh. This season saw Lulu Kennedy celebrate 20 years at the helm. Incidentally, FW20 also marked the first ever co-ed showing – yet another indication that gendered runways could soon be a thing of the past.
Saul Nash isn’t just a designer – he’s a movement director, too. These two practices mesh seamlessly in his creative world, defined by carefully-choreographed runway performances and a slick, minimalist aesthetic built around the potential for these clothes to be lived in.
FW20 saw technical fabrics reign supreme, with lightweight knits and waterproof nylons in a colour palette of blacks, greys and blues. Scarves and hoodies came padded and fastened with toggles to allow maximum protection, whereas design experimentation came in the one-shouldered track jackets – a visual marker of Nash’s desire to “interrogate men’s clothing and masculinity.”
GALLERYCatwalk looks from this show