- Text Fabien Kruszelnicki
- 11th January 2014
A static, pulsating video of a molecular sphere backdropped the stage as we took our seats, and was soon put into motion as the show began. Zooming through the universe, past planets, saturn’s rings, star constellations and stumbling on earth – right into the show venue – then zooming in even further through the roof, displaying the audience and collection in real time. It was an unnerving reminder of technology’s rapid development and entwinement in our lives, now more than ever – technology as ever being an important aspect of the fabric used by Stefano Pilati this season.
The collection was perhaps a more subtle statement than last season, hinting initially at a more traditional Ermenegildo Zegna man, yet on closer inspection, through the interplay of tech and tradition, the elegance and soft touch of the collection became apparent. Something only possible through the hand of a skilled designer.
A 100% pure vicuna bomber jacket stood out – the most expensive fabric in the world (in Incan days only royalty were allowed to wear it) providing a contemporary loose silhouette over a tighter classic shape, with a touch of exclusive luxe.
Classic and sports inspired looks loosened the traditional bulky layers of formalwear, with varying levels of cashmere and fine wool, while other fabrics mixed silk and wool with Kevlar to produce all new techno-visceral touches.
This is the second collection by Stefano Pilati and the brand’s decision to rename the catwalk collection ‘Ermenegildo Zegna Couture’ may be part of a determination to cater for a new audience of men – those with new money and cultured taste, who look for high luxury combined with the cutting edge.