- Text Cristian Burbano
- Photography Emily Malan
- 19th June 2017
Come as you are
For SS17 womenswear Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad opted for a pink themed collection. One year later for SS18, things took a blue turn with the brand’s first first co-ed runway show at Milan Fashion Week. Norwegian Melbostad (who has previously worked at Yves Saint Laurent and Calvin Klein) first took the reigns of at the brand in 2012. (Diesel Black Gold is the luxury younger sibling of the mainline Diesel, offering premium runway focussed counterpart to Nicola Formichetti’s output.)
Milan’s Megawatt Court was the setting for the show, the vast warehouse space offering a fitting venue for the urban-athletic collection, conveying what Melbostad described as a “Techno-Grunge” attitude. And so the men’s and women’s looks fused together sports with grunge in a mostly watery blue palette (like aqua, mint and turquoise).
Those grunge references translated most strongly through exaggerated proportions, like elongated plaid shirts with shorts layered over leggings for a sporty vibe. Layering defined most of the collection’s silhouettes, with further 90s vibes channeled through short sleeve t-shirts over long sleeved tops – think Nirvana. Short sleeve outerwear was present, with a parka and a hoodie hybrid teamed with long shirting and plain white t-shirt. On the feet were creeper-esque chunky soles and lace up leather hiking boots.