- Photography Jessica De Maio
- Text Clementine Zawadzki
- 16th January 2017
Androgyny is Damir Doma’s calling card, and this season that focussed on an interplay of texture and proportion.
The Milan-based label, set up a straight silhouette with oversized outerwear, wide-leg trousers swamping frames cinched in high at the waist. Knitwear was distressed and unfinished, exposing hints of colour within what was predominantly a monochrome palate. That clash of rough and refined materials came through in the girls’ crushed velvet dresses in fiery red (very 90s grunge) and long silk shirts, offsetting the stiffness of roll-neck knits and high-collared pinafores. A surprise pop of colour came courtesy some truly mega fuchsia and teal knee-high boots, breaking up the otherwise earthy colour palette of browns and greens.
Back to that proportional play. Dramatic silk duster coats were slung of female models shoulders, setting off the stiffness of other more structured looks. Like the fantastic red series of karate-inspired pants and tunics, patterned with embroidered motifs and bunched with leather ties (black belt, anyone?). The notion of monochrome blocking is something Doma handles well, and after those warm-hued red and orange looks we got a set of all-chalk then all-charcoal looks, covered in pockets with straps flailing. Like a straight-jacketed martial arts master, breaking free of his shackles.