• Text Clementine Zawadzki
  • Photography Takanori Okuwaki
  • 10th January 2016

military stance

“Focusing on the concept of appropriating establishment uniformity to create anti-establishment individualism,” read Casely-Hayford’s FW16 mantra. Deconstructing the norm with a sharp edge before reappropiating the meaning – “expression of free spirit with the very particular gestures of English sartorialism” – cutting a contemporary fusion into the mix.

Embodying this ethos, Casely-Hayford’s FW16 man imbued British music’s long-term affiliation with rebellion and cultural reappropiation. Populated by zeitgeist references, from The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper jackets through hip hop streetwear, to sharp tailoring that would make Paul Weller double take. It’s all about taking potentially desperate influences, finding the common denominator and then weaving a fresh narrative from within.

With a psychedelic mindset pieces came adorned in floral prints, tie-dye and regal detailing. A retro renegade of primary colours shone at best in a stunning blue, crushed velvet combative bib, with fine gold rope embellishing, paired with a fine, grey tunic and classic black suit trousers. With a little help from their friends came specially designed creepers – a collaboration with American shoe brand Sperry – balancing each look on a sturdy platform – and dazzlingly polished, just as the Teddy Boys intended.

The ability to mix, match and transform is something Casely-Hayford articulate with bold panache. Take that MA1 nylon khaki, for instance, re-imagined with traditional, regimental hand embroidery. Now that’s British uniformity at it’s most relevant.