For her sophomore collection for Calvin Klein Collection, Veronica Leoni re-emphasised what feels like will be her raison d’être at the brand: making everyday clothes for people to exist freely in. In the show notes, words like ‘simplification’ and ‘normality’ jumped out, underscoring a collection grounded in clarity and ease. These were clothes for people to wear – not clothes that wear them.

And isn’t that, in essence, what Calvin Klein has always stood for? The tentpole of the brand is underwear, the one item of clothing that people actively try to hide. Leoni is making clothes for people to live in, that speak softly – and carry real resonance.

Shown at the Brant Foundation in East Village, Kid Harpoon was on soundtrack duty, mixing tracks with orchestral, synth and sample flourishes – including Back to the Future’s iconic Marty McFly moment, when he assumes the name Calvin Klein, as a wink to the brand’s vast cultural imprint. Using the everyday people of New York as her muse, Leoni’s collection was a sleek mix of wardrobe essentials and glamour. There were creamy utilitarian fits for the boys and habit-like headscarves for the girls. In a nice bit of playful technical prowess, pom-poms were suspended from dress hems, and one dress was made entirely out of Calvin Klein underwear waistbands. After the show, guests continued the evening at iconic NYC haunt, Indochine, toasting to the city that surges through the brand’s spirit and sensibility.